Morocco High Atlas Mountains
Stories of Morocco’s diverse landscape, population and history had always interested Carol and I. We had heard wonderful stories about the famous shopping bazarres in Fes and Marrakesh, the world renowned cuisine, and the stories of how the country is known for being one the most tolerant of the Arab nations. What surprised us was learning about the high Atlas mountains that have become a popular trekking destination just outside of Marrakesh. The Atlas mountains stretch some 2,500 km (1,600 miles) across Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. The highest of the range are in Morocco and the highest peak is Mt Toubkal at 4,167m (13,671 ft). Toubkal is just south of Marrakesh and is surrounded by ancient Berber villages that date back over 4000 years. Carol began investigating traveling to Morocco and we quickly convinced ourselves trekking in the High Atlas would be our next adventure.
We flew into Marrakesh on April 25th 2018 and stayed at the Riad Jona in the center of the Medina ( old city). The Medina is a densely packed , walled medieval city dating back to the Berber empire. The streets are narrow and bustling with merchants and lots of tourists.
It was a little intimidating starting our trip right smack in the middle of the old city with hustlers and scammers every where you turn. Like many poor countries, Morocco has it’s share of struggling merchants and they see a foreigner from a mile away. We did not run into any problems other than many aggressive peddlers who are your best friend until you tell them no, you’re not interested in a purchase. We learned the best policy was not to respond to their constant offers. Just DON”T make eye contact.
Although somewhat overwhelming, the markets in the old city are vibrant, full of activity and unlike any we’d ever seen. The colors, the smells, and the merchandise are all worth the experience. The first day we just strolled around but got lost in the maze of tiny streets and alleyways just as it was getting dark. We eventually found our way back to our hotel but I would not recommend walking around the markets at night, at least not your first day in town.
The next day we made a better decision signing up for a walking tour of the Medina which was a much more relaxing way to get acclimated and learn about the rich history of the old city.
My favorite cuisine in Morocco was chicken Tajine, a slowly cooked savory stew of chicken with vegetables cooked in a traditional Moroccan clay pot. We enjoyed the Tajines so much we added a Tajine cooking class to our hotel stay in Fes. Absolutely delicious.
Main market place Djemma el Fna
Trekking in the High Atlas
After a day and a half of sightseeing in Marrakesh, we headed for the town of Imlil to start our trek. We booked our 3 day trek with Mountain Travel Morocco and they provided us with a guide, accommodations for 2 nights, a mule to carry our luggage and all the food and drink during the trek. They also provided transportation to and from our hotel. So, as I like to say, no worries, be happy. Our guide spoke English and he kept us safe and well fed.
We started hiking around noon in Imlil at 1740m and headed up towards the col of Tizi’n Tamatert at 2279m. The rain started before we even reached the top so we had lunch cramped into a tiny bit of dry space in a hut at the top. We continued down on the other side and eventually arrived in Tinerhourhine at 1600m.
Starting out in Imlil
We spent our first night in a local gite. A gite is a very basic Berber accommodation similar to a hostel with a thin mattress on the floor. We did have our own room but other than a mattress, it was bare bones.
Day 2 Tinerhourhine to Ait Aissa 6 to 7 hours walking
The next morning we woke to clear blue skies and tremendous views of the High Atlas. There is nothing as rewarding as coming into a new place blinded by rain and clouds but then opening your eyes the next morning to the magnificent views you were robbed of the previous day. As we started our day along the Imnane valley, we passed Berber villages bustling with activity. I felt like we’d gone back in time. The Berber are living a sustainable lifestyle of agriculture farming and cattle. It was impressive to see such a large community living off the land.
We hiked up to the top of a pass at 2000m called Tizi n’ Aguersioual and were rewarded with tremendous views of the mountains surrounding us. Our final destination was another Berber village called Ait Aissa at 1800m.
Our guide and our porter were great and prepared some amazing meals for us. Today lunch was a plate of hummus, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, bread and a hearty soup. More than we could eat and still continue the hike.
Day 3 Ait Aissa back to Imlil via Tizi Mzik at 2400m
Today we hiked up to Tizi Mzik at 2400m and then descended back into Imlil where we headed back to Marrakesh. The weather was perfect for hiking and we meet a few locals all of whom our guide seems to know. The views down into Imlil were spectacular
Marrakeshe to Fes via Dades Gorge and Erg Cherbbi -> 4 days
Our next adventure in Morocco was a 4 day tour package that included a private car and tour guide, a day of hiking in the hills of the Dades Gorge and overnight desert camping in Erg Cherbbi. We thought this would be a great way to see the country and get in a hike and camel ride between Marrakesh and Fes. We booked the all inclusive 4 day trip with Morocco Desert Tours for a reasonable 400 Euros per person. Our guide and driver Mohamed was extremely knowledgeable, fluent in English and we genuinely had a great time with him for 4 days.
I’m always mesmerized by the solitude and beauty of the desert. The Erg Cherbbi seemed like a desert but is actually a large sea of dunes formed by wind blown sand. The Sahara desert is to the south but the vastness of Erg Cherbbi reminded me of other desert adventures we had experienced. We spent less than an hour riding by camel to our overnight camp and arrived late in the afternoon. They prepared a traditional dinner of tagine and later that evening we took advantage of the desert darkness and star gazed, marveling we were camping in a North African desert.
On our Dades Gorge hike, we stopped and had tea with a nomadic Berber family living in a small cave in the Dades Gorge. Carol pulled out her phone to take a photo and the oldest daughter became fascinated with the phone and photos. This family spends their time here in the winter and then moving from here to the higher elevations during the warm summer months. It surprised us to hear there are many of these nomadic Berber families simply living off the land just like they did 1000 years ago.
Exploring Fes
Fes was the capital of Morocco until 1925 and has always been considered the spiritual home of the country. Fes is known as the “Athens of Africa” for it’s history and role as the spiritual and learning center of Morocco. Fes, like Marrakesh, has a large walled Medina with a maze of endless shops and eateries. We stayed at a wonderful hotel called Riad Le Calife, just outside the Medina. A friendly Frenchman and his wife own the place and were very helpful and accommodating during our stay. Breakfast at the Riad, was upstairs on the balcony with 360 degree views of the city and a great way to start the day.
Above -> Men working at the Chouara Tannery in the bazaar.
They told us this famous tannery is almost 1000 years old. Like most poor countries, there are many industries / jobs that OSHA would not allow in a developed country. This seemed like one of them. The fumes from the tanning vats made my eyes water and stomach churn. I was glad to move on quickly from the tannery.
Fes seemed less chotic than Marrakesh and we found many relaxing parks as we strolled the city.
Our last supper in Morocco was one we cooked ourselves, with the help of our cooking teacher at our Riad. It turned out to be one of the best meals we had in Morocco although all of the credit goes to our teacher and chef.
The next morning we began our journey back home. We caught a five hour hot and cramped train ride to Casablanca and from there, flew to the east coast and then on to Denver. As usual, for me it’s bittersweet having to end an adventure and returning to my normal routine.